Power:

Depends on the weight of the person. Good for someone around 100kg.
It'll give plenty of power for most state forest adventures and leave you a bit extra on reserve. Engine specs: 4-Stroke, air-cooled, DOHC, 4-valve, single, B&S 86.0 x 59.6 mm, Capacity 346.0 cc, Compression Ratio 9.0:1, Lubrication Wetsump 1.6 litres, Ignition CDI, Starter Kick, Gearbox 6-speed: 1st 37/15(2.466) 2nd 29/16(1.812) 3rd 26/19(1.368) 4th 27/25(1.080) 5th 24/27(0.888) 6th 22/29(0.758) Yes!
It throws rocks.

Sprockets standard: 14/50 (If trail riding 13/50 or 14/52 may be a better choice!).

Suspension:

Front: Telescopic fork, Air, Coil spring, Oil damper. Rear: Swingarm (Link suspension) Gas, Coil spring. Adjust the back shocker to suit your riding! The only draw back with the front suspension is having to release the air out of the front forks after a serious ride. This usually involves removing the bars? Make up a little tool to fit and then it's easy. Normally the TT350 is design friendly and easy to work on so it's a small compromise. Overall the suspension is adequate. After all it is a trail bike not motocross.

Handling:

It's not a WR but it does give the TTR250 a run for its money. I have found the handling very good over rocks, in the sand, through rivers and up some very steep hills with some major pot holes and wash outs, also not to bad on the jumps...Stay below 5ft any higher buy a WR. How steep? Well, one of the hills I took at 60KPH (40 MPH) at a distance of 700 meters straight up and when I got to the top I could only see the 2/3s of the track below due to the protruding edge. That was the day that the bike really proved itself! The Minimum ground clearance is 310mm (12.2 in) so there is a little more height than the TTR250. Dry Weight TT350 114Kg. Dry Weight TTR250 120Kg. You do need good upper body strength if riding over 5 hours. It will get up, through and over most things.

Brakes:

Pulls up on a quarter! Even with full tank and oil. Down hill may not have the response of discs the drum brake can be a bit touchy but they weren't designed to be a disc so as a drum brake they do a great job.
Going down hills in some cases I put the TT350 in 3rd (13/50 gearing) and fan the clutch anyway. The brakes are perfect for the bike and function well even after traveling under water.

Reliability:

Never had a problem! Go into a motorbike wreakers and ask them if they have any Yamaha TT parts and then ask if they have XR parts? In Australia up until 1999 sales of XR's were more than TT's but if you estimate the amount of parts available over the last 10 years there is a heap more XR parts than TT parts out there. To many XR parts even when you take into account the additional XR sales? The TT350 also has an oil measurement window so you know if you oil is low! For those of us who have blown up our XR's through lack of oil you know the advantages? Go anywhere reliability!

Comments:

Have a good hard look at yourself before buying a Road/Trail and ask what you will need to get the job done. Then consider the price. The TT350 has lived up to my expectations. If I could go back in time I would likely make the same decision. In the rating I'm going to give the TT350 a 8 out of 10 only because I know that Yamaha have come out with great new products and if I had to compare and finances permitting, well... it might be another story. Having said that I feel a lot more comfortable passing someone on a more up to date bike on my TT350! I'm 35 (2001) married and have two children. I used to race in the days of the YZ80G and had other bikes since, mainly two stroke. This is my second four stroke and for the price $3000 US on road/trail it gets me where I want to go. Here is some links that you can copy into your browsers address it should take you to some pics? If current!

http://www.bikepics.com/yamaha/tt350/

And if you want to see a perfect TT350 1986:

http://www.mikeschinkel.com/ForSale/TT350/

09/02/2001 Yamaha TT350 1986-2000, I purchased the Yamaha TT350 2000 brand new and at that time the engine including carburettors were completely standard. Primary & Secondary standard carb set-up on TT350: Main jet: 122 Secondary: 125 Main air jet: 1.0 Secondary: 0.8 Jet needle/clip position: 5C9A/3-5 Secondary: 4A70/3-5 Pilot jet: 40 (Changed to #42 for Saintune) - Pilot air jet: 0.8 - Pilot air screw turns out 2 3/4 +/-1/2 - Valve seat: 2.5 - Alterations/Changes to suit YAMAHA TT250/350 86/96 Big Bore HEADER SET (41.3mm OD outlet) Pilot jet changed from #40 to #42.
The air box was also played with but nothing significant to add.
Been out a few times since last Email and the performance is very good, no lean smells, idling better than with standard pipe and cold starts are a snap.
Suggested necessary regular maintenance is to clean air filter every third ride to allow for maximum air flow and drain fuel muck using 'Drain Screw' at base of secondary carb (carb at left side of bike) every fourth ride. This is done to avoid any bog down effect in the delivery system a small compromise for the amount of power gained, very easy to do.

9/30/2001 Since writing this review I have added a STAINTUNE YAMAHA TT250/350 86/96 Big Bore HEADER SET (41.3mm OD outlet) this includes the P/Pipe also. The power increase is very noticeable and aesthetically it's a major improvement on the old standard pipe. Also the jetting was changed to suit the full system. If you would like to check out the STAINTUNE website here's the link: www.staintune.com I will try to post a pic on the member page as soon as I can get a hold of a digital camera.

All the best,

Paul. (moskian@hotmail.com)